How to Pass A Smoke-Emission Test

How to Pass A Smoke

Emission Test

 Give your precious vehicle a better chance of passing a Smoke Emission (also referred to as smoke test or smoke check) when you apply for registration. A well –maintained car, with all its systems in optimum condition, is more likely to pass the test with flying colors.

Partially due the economy, there is demand for the cheapest fuel –diesel-and with the low cost of such fuel comes very high emission output. Through the clean Air Act, the Philippine Land Transportation Office (LTO) has mandated “smoke emission tests to be passed by vehicles running on diesel engines as part of requirements for the renewal of the yearly vehicle registration.  LTO has in operation motor vehicle inspection centers to large transport groups, while private emission testing centers (PETC) provide testing services to public transport vehicles, including private-owned vehicles It is important to understand that smoke testing is a fundamental process for the alleviation of health-threatening pollutants in the atmosphere. EMISSION test programs verify that the car’s emission system is performing properly.

RUNNING RIGHT

Never subject your vehicle to a smoke inspection if it does not run right. Chances are that it will fall the smoke check. Seek professional assistance first to save you time and money.       

INFLATE TIRES 

The technician may need to drive the vehicle on a dynamometer which positions the car tires on rollers that allow the engine to run of high speed s while it is stationary as a part of the smoke test process. An even and correct tire pressure allows the vehicle to be driven with greater stability and accuracy and the engine to maintain a steady and constant load in torn, the improves the overall emission output.

TAKE   A DRIVE

Drive your vehicles for at least 25 minutes prior to arriving at the smoke inspection station. Experts say that this will ensure that the vehicle is a adequately warmed up and is running at its optimum level. The engine is a fuel burning machine, and a cold engine may be your Achilles heel during the test. To ensure proper combustion it needs to have sufficient time to warm up.

                               CHECK COOLANT AND GAS LEVELS

Make sure to fill your coolant tank properly before the test less or air flows through the radiator to cool the vehicles when it is tested at high speed while stationary or at an angle on a dynamometer. Experts add that low gas level in the tank could expose the fuel pump and put vapor in the fuel line, causing the car to fail the test.

Avoid rainy days-Some say that wet tires can slip on the dynamometer and give a false reading that can cause smoke check failure. Others on the other hand say the warm-up cycle of the test will usually dry off the tires. Furthermore,  extra humidity during rainy days  results in lower emissions of some pollutants.

                   

CLEAR THAT “CHECK ENGINE “LIGHT

If the “check Engine” light is on your car will need immediate engine repair, this means that it is an automatic smoke check failure. Get a pre-test for a diagnosis and fix. Experts say that this is mostly due to a faulty oxygen sensor, or at times before it fails, it does not properly regulate the gas or air mixture.

CHANGE OIL     

 If it is needed or close to your next oil change interval, change it. Every engine is specifically designed to breathe fumes located in the oil compartment. Experts say that if the oil is contaminated due to inadequate oil changes it could release additional pollutants that may very well be your ticket to a failed inspection.

DO A TUNE-UP

Two weeks before the smoke test. Have any required maintenance performed well before the smoke test. Most mechanics disconnect the battery while doing a tune-up and this resets the cars on board computer. The car then needs two weeks of driving to run all the diagnostic tests needed to pass the vehicle test.

Smoke test can be a ceremonial hassle for car owners and yet, there are simple steps they can take to tilt the odds of passing a smoke check in their favor. There are a lot of necessary steps they can accomplish before hand to ensure their precious set of wheels get a clean health bill and registered. Here are the top tips we have gathered from smoke check technicians to prepare your car for a smoke check.

AVOID RAINY DAYS

Some say that wet tires can slip on the dynamometer and give a false reading that can cause smoke check failure. Others on the other hand say the warm-up cycle of the test will usually dry off the tires. Furthermore, extra humidity during rainy days results in lower emissions of some pollutants.

USE ADDITIVES

Fuel additives are normally poured into the gas tank during refueling. It can be very helpful in lowering emission levels, improving combustion, increasing overall engine performance and ultimately in passing the smoke test. The mixture cleans carbon deposits within the engine’s intake and exhaust paths, allowing for both fuel and air to flow freely within its passages.

Some older cars that run poorly may have clogged fuel injectors, say experts, and mixing an additive could clean the small openings and help the cars pass the smoke test.

BATTERY : A Quick Guide To The Most Overlooked Necessity

Tips About About Battery

In 1859, a French physicist by the name of Gaston Planté invented the lead-acid battery we all know today. It wasn’t until the early 1900s that the battery was adapted for automotive use, and it was 1912 before the first electric-powered starter motor appeared on an automobile in the United States. While the electri- cal demands of cars and trucks have grown exponentially, the same technology used in the beginning is likely the same as what is under your hood right now.

-- It’s not uncommon for modern diesel pickup trucks to run two batteries, connected in parallel, to handle engine starting along with other auxiliary power needs. Small-displacement diesel and gasoline-powered vehicles will typically only run one battery. --

Batteries are often ignored until there is a problem. However, with a firm grasp of exactly what a battery is and how one works, you’re more likely to have fewer issues and will get greater performance, reliability, and longevity out of the ones you already own.

Battery Types

Some of the greatest confusion about batteries surrounds battery type. There are two main types of lead-acid batteries (along with three subcategories): starting and deep cycle. Starting (also referred to as cranking) batteries are de- signed to deliver quick bursts of energy, such as starting an engine, and are designed with a higher plate count. A deep-cycle battery pro- vides less instant energy but can do it for extended periods of time. Deep-cycle batteries typically have thicker plates and can survive more discharge cycles than a starting battery.

Wet Cell

Serviceable and maintenance-free wet cell, or flooded, charged lead-acid batteries are filled with a liquid solution called electrolyte that surrounds negative plates of elemental lead (Pb) and positive plates of lead oxide (PbO2). Electrolyte, which is a solution consist- ing of about 35 percent sulfuric acid (H2SO4) and 65 percent water, causes a chemical reaction that releases electrons that then flow through conductors to produce electricity. Since some wet cells have removable caps allowing access to the electrolyte, a hydrometer can measure the amount of sulfuric acid in the electrolyte. A low reading indicates the electron-making chemistry is lacking, and that the sul- fur is now resting on the battery plates, which in the discharged state are now both lead sulfate (PbSO4). Revival comes through recharg- ing, as the sulfur returns to the diluted electrolyte. The wet cell is inexpensive and long lasting but can leak or spill.

Gel cell

This specialty battery is typically much more costly than a premium wet cell, but it stores very well, and the reduced risk of explosion or corrosion makes this battery safer than wet cells. As the name implies, a gelling agent -- actually an absorptive fine powder -- is added to the electrolyte inside the battery case to reduce movement of the sulfuric acid electrolyte. These batteries are sealed and not service-able. They may require a special charging rate to prevent excess gas from damaging the cells and are generally less tolerant of high heat. These are also the least common of the three battery types. 

Absorbed Glass Mat (Agm)

In this type of lead-acid battery, absorbent fine fiber Boron- Silicate glass-mat separators hold the electrolyte solution like a sponge to eliminate acid spilling while keeping it in constant con- tact with the plates’ active lead material. Some of the more com- mon names for these AGM batteries are: sealed regulated valve, dry cell, non-spillable, and valve-regulated lead-acid (VRLA). Like the gel cell, they are costly but store well, do not tend to sulfate or degrade as easily as wet cells since they are not vented to the atmosphere, and are safer. AGMs are replacing gel cell batteries, as they can take much more abuse. Optima batteries are the most common and well-recognized AGM battery brand.

Think of a battery like your bank account: If you keep taking out and put nothing in, you’ll soon be left with nothing at all.

Battery Ratings

There are a few key acronyms you need to know when talking about batteries. These are the standards by which most companies rate the output and capacity of a battery.

Cold Cranking Amps (CCA):Cold cranking amps is a measure- ment of the number of amps a battery can deliver at 0 degrees F, for 30 seconds, while not dropping below 7.2 volts. This is the most widely known battery rating and is oftentimes used when compari- son shopping. It is important to choose a battery with a high enough CCA rating for the engine you’re starting, and climate you live in.

Cranking Amps (CA): Cranking amps are measured in the same way as CCA, except it is done at 32 degrees F.

Reserve Capacity (RC): This is a very important rating, espe- cially when shopping for an auxiliary or deep-cycle battery. Reserve capacity refers to the number of minutes a fully charged battery can discharge 25 amps at 80 degrees F until it drops below 10.5 volts. AMP HOUR (AH): An amp hour rating is usually found on deep- cycle batteries and is a rating taken over a 20-hour time span. For example, a 100-amp-hour-rated battery will provide 5 amps per hour for 20 hours (100 amps / 20 hours = 5 amps per hour). However, it is worth noting that total time of discharge and load applied is not a linear relationship. As your load increases, realized capacity decreases. This means if you discharge that same 100 AH battery by a 100-amp load, it will not give one hour of runtime.

Series vs. Parallel

More often than not, diesel pickup trucks are equipped with two batteries. This is done to provide the amps needed to turn over the high-compression, large-displacement engine. However, just be- cause there are two 12-volt batteries under the hood does not mean the truck runs off of 24 volts, as is sometimes thought. Diesel pickup trucks run with two batteries connected in paral- lel. Parallel connections will increase current rating, while voltage remains the same. For example, two 12-volt, 10-amp-hour, batter- ies connected in parallel will still provide the same 12 volts, but 20 amp-hours. To link batteries in parallel, connect the like terminals together, positive to positive, negative to negative.

By comparison, connecting batteries in series, positive to negative, will combine the voltage but keep the original amp capacity. If our example above were connected in series, the result would be a 24-volt, 10-amp-hour output. Unless your vehicle was designed to run on 24 volts, such as in the case of a retired military vehicle, connecting batter- ies in series will cause irreparable damage to the vehicle’s electronics.

Jumping And Charging

Dead batteries are no fun, and odds are good that we’ve all been there before, be it from leaving the headlights on, listening to the radio too long, or through no fault of our own. Although it’s a grim term, a dead battery is oftentimes recoverable, and generally not at all dead. When battery voltage and amperage drops below the threshold required to start the vehicle, it is referred to as dead, and this typically occurs around 10.5 volts.

When this happens, a simple jump-start from another vehicle is usually all it takes to get back on the road again. With a quality set of cables and another running vehicle, connect the positive leads from the cables to the positive terminal on the battery, followed by the negatives. Wait a moment for the voltages to equalize and then start the dead vehicle. Remove the cables in the opposite order, beginning with negative. Diesel trucks with dual batteries will often indicate which battery they prefer to jump from.

If you can’t get a dead truck started after a couple minutes of jump- ing, odds are the batteries have been drained to the point where they need charging. Charging wet or gel-cell batteries is as simple as plugging them into a standard 12-volt automotive battery charger. AGM batteries, however, may require a special charger if their volt- age drops below 10.5 volts. Low amperage and longer charge times are better for batteries, and a vehicle’s alternator should never be relied upon to charge a dead battery.

Read more: http://www.dieselpowermag.com/tech/1408_battery_essentials_basic_training/#ixzz3DF1yBHd5

Good news: Lifting of Truck Ban!

During a press conference on Saturday morning, Estrada said the lifting of the truck ban is effective 12 noon today, pursuant to Executive Order No. 67.

Estrada said the city decided to lift the truck ban to give the national government the free hand to address congestion in the ports.

"We understand that the national government is confident that it can solve the problem of the port congestion within the few months in time for the holiday season," he told reporters.

The truck ban in Manila has been blamed by some sectors for the port congestion and the slowdown of logistic process in Philippines.

It was good news that Manila Local Government was lifting its truck ban, and the Confederation of Truckers Association of the Philippines was so delightful with this latest update.

Group’s director Mr. Alberto Suansing, said that they are hoping that with this latest update it will ensure a smooth traffic flow. 

With this move, port congestion will ease and dramatically help to decrease the problems with port congestion.

Changing Phase!

We always look for better solutions in every costumer’s needs in diesel services. This year is a seesaw like motions in business.  In deed we manage to stay upward and move to reach our goal.

We tirelessly studied our system and develop our business strategies and we believed that this was an endless development. We approach halfway of year 2014 and this seems to be a better, more brighter and defining in every diesel service industries.

We look forward and happier to be your business partner in this transportation industry.

Thank you!!!

 

Romer Rayos

History

 

Ruby Diesel Parts and Calibration Services were celebrating its almost 25 years of services. Despite of several ups and down on its milestones. Ruby Diesel was been sturdy from the call for the needs of its customers. During the year of 1990 when Mr. Romulo Rayos Sr. decided to go back to his native Philippines for good, he never imagine seeing himself to open a business that will be open for almost 25 years.  Mr. Romulo Rayos Sr. better known as “Romy” to the loyal clients ventured with his brother Mr. Abundio Rayos. They started to open a Malabon Branch of Atlas Calibration. Later on Mr. Romy Rayos decided to buy the Atlas Calibration Malabon Branch and decided to rename it to Ruby Calibration Service Center. Adopting his lucky birthstone and coincidentally also the birthstone of his wife and youngest son. Later after 20 yrs. Ruby Calibration Service Center renamed it into Ruby Diesel Parts and Calibration Services in support for a plan to diverse its products and services. And it will open a Diesel Parts Supply Facility.  It was year 2011 when Mr. Romy Rayos migrated in Canada together with his wife. Then his son Romulo ‘Romer’ Rayos Jr.  decided to take charge to his business and lead it to another challenging years.